Once cuttings are stored, it is sometimes difficult to tell the top of a cutting from the bottom. The wood at the end of a cane is often not well matured and is therefore not recommended for use as a cutting. The canes from which the cuttings are chosen should also not be overly vigorous (Figure 3). A cutting of that length should have at least 3 buds, but not more than 6–7 buds (Figure 2). For practical purposes, it is easiest to make all cuttings the same length 14–16 inches is ideal. Making the CuttingsĬuttings are prepared from the previous year’s growth of one-year-old wood.
It is therefore best to plant cuttings in a nursery for one year to allow them to root and then plant them into the vineyard in the second year. Dry, cold winter weather often leads to desiccation (drying out) of the wood later during the dormant season, and the rate of rooting success is significantly lowered. Time for CuttingsĬuttings can be taken at any time during the dormant season, but in New Mexico it is best to take cuttings in December or January. With a negative selection, it is best to prune the plants before pruning for cuttings cut the wood of the negative selections into very short pieces so they will not be propagated (to avoid confusing them with cuttings that will be propagated). Negative selections would also include vines that are a different cultivar than the cultivar you wish to propagate.
Vines can be marked in two ways: for a positive selection (virus-free), mark plants at the trunk with white paint and take cuttings only from those plants for a negative selection (infected), mark plants at the trunk with red paint and do not take cuttings from those plants (Figure 1). It is important to scout the vineyard for possibly infected vines and then mark those vines so that no cuttings will be taken from them. In recent years, virus-infected vines have become a large concern for grape growers. Selected vines should be well cropped, but should not appear to be over-cropped since this will prevent the wood from being fully matured, and the cuttings may root poorly as a result. At this time, it is possible to select vines producing high-quality fruit with high yield and good vigor. The best time for selecting the vines for propagation is at harvest or just before harvest.
#Grape plant free
When scouting your vineyard for virus- and disease-infected plants, mark infected plants red for a negative selection or mark plants white if they are symptom free for a positive selection.
This guide concentrates on the easiest and likely most successful method of rooting cuttings.įigure 1. There are many other methods for producing grape vine plants that are not considered here. This guide will explain the rooting of hardwood vine cuttings. In New Mexico, where we do not encounter such conditions, it is best to grow the cuttings for one year in a nursery and then plant them in a permanent location the following year. In areas like the eastern United States where there is an abundance of rainfall and high humidity, many growers start new vineyards by planting cuttings directly in the vineyard. Through propagation, growers can select healthy vines for making cuttings, potentially select a particular strain of a cultivar, and also save money. Grape growers often want to increase the number of vines in their vineyards, or develop new plantings by using their own cuttings. Guide H-322 Revised by Bernd Maier College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences, New Mexico State UniversityĪuthor: Extension Viticulture Specialist, Department of Extension Plant Sciences, New Mexico State University. Propagation of Grape Vine Cuttings: A Practical Guide
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